Forgotten places: the vestiges of the colonial exhibitions in the Bois de Vincennes
Article originally published on www.rfi.fr. Translated into English by Kyra Alessandrini. The original article may be found at: http://www.rfi.fr/france/20180820-lieux-oublies-vestiges-expositions-coloniales-bois-vincennes
In 1907 and 1931, two colonial exhibitions were held at the Bois de Vincennes. Today, scarce remains are scattered throughout the park. Just like the memories of the colonial era, these old buildings are relegated to oblivion. Let’s explore one of the largest green spaces in Paris and uncover the remains of this bygone era.
The Garden of Tropical Agronomy is located at the edge of the woods, in the 12th arrondissement of Paris. In 1907, it hosts the first colonial exhibition of the Bois de Vincennes. Steeped in history, this place remains surprisingly unknown to the public. Upon entering the garden, a Chinese gate stands before us. In 1907, it indicated to visitors the entrance of the exhibition. Past the gate, the Garden of Tropical Agronomy unravels several other vestiges from the colonial exhibition, such as old abandoned pavilions, imposing statues hidden behind trees… One may easily get lost in this maze of the past, in which each path leads to a vestige coming from Madagascar, Indochina or Tunisia. Today, one may also find several monuments built to honor the soldiers from the colonies, who sacrificed their lives during World War One.
Human zoos at the first exhibition in 1907 and on the margins of the second edition in 1931
The colonial exhibition of 1907 was notorious for having organized human zoos. Today, the colonial pavilions in the Garden of Tropical Agronomy are the only traces of this past. A few years later, the Secretary of the colonies Paul Reynaud banned human zoos from the colonial exhibition of 1931. According to Philippe Evanno, a professor at Paris-Sorbonne University, this decision is due to a “complete change” in the mindset of that time.
This change was partly triggered by the draft of African soldiers in World War One, and by a better knowledge of colonized territories. However, the historian insists on the racist ideology that prevailed under the Third Republic. This explains why human zoos were organized on the margins of the colonial exhibition of 1931. Members of the native community of New Caledonia — Kanaks — were displayed in the Jardin d’Acclimatation in Paris. These natives had to recreate their customs in a stereotypical and humiliating manner. In order to gain knowledge of these past events, one must rely on one’s will to share. A young Caledonian woman who agrees to answer our questions admits: “it hasn’t been addressed in school. I became aware of these events […] through my parents, my family and my friends.” It is in short, a memory that may well be forgotten.
Today, the pavilions of Togo and Cameroon are the only ones dating back to the 1931 exhibition. Although the one built for Cameroon hasn’t been renovated, Togo’s pavilion has been converted into an International Buddhist Center.
An event of colonial propaganda
In 1931, the purpose of the colonial exhibition was to make the French people aware of the empire’s cultural and economic wealth. With its 8 million visitors, it is considered one of the largest exhibitions of the twentieth century.
Exotic performances, camel back-riding tours, and the ability to visit “the world in one day”*, were among the promising attractions catered to families and children on school excursions. However, the colonial exhibition of 1931 also had an economic intent. It was a valuable place of information for businessmen wanting to invest in the empire. Several advertisement stalls were installed by brands such as Banania or Louis Vuitton.
The most significant trace of the colonial exhibition of 1931 remains the Palais de la Porte Dorée. Formerly named Museum of the Colonies, it is classified today as a historical monument. This building was the only one constructed with the intent of remaining after the colonial exhibition. It illustrated one of the main goals of the exhibition, which was to educate and show the French people the extent of their colonial empire. France was, after all, the second largest colonial power in the world after the United Kingdom. Secretary of the Colonies Paul Reynaud even stated in his inauguration speech that “the essential purpose of the Exhibition is to give the French an awareness of their Empire” and that “everyone must consider themselves a citizen of Greater France.”
A past that is difficult to apprehend today
Today, the Palais de la Porte Dorée is home to the National Museum of the History of Immigration. Its director, Hélène Orain, explains that it remains to this day “the only museum in Europe […] to be solely dedicated to the history of immigration”. The Palais de la Porte Dorée therefore takes on an educational approach. The museum gives the opportunity to tell the story of immigration by going beyond its ties with France’s colonial past. “One of our goals is to change the way in which immigration is perceived in French society, […] shifting from suspicion, fear, to acceptance […] because France is a country of immigration.”
However, the remnants of these colonial exhibitions remain scarce or little known to the general public. France’s colonial past is often considered as being inglorious and even shameful. To Philippe Evanno, “we are a generation of French who do not take responsibility” for colonization. These large-scale events have nonetheless contributed to the formation of Paris as we know it. The 1931 exhibition, for example, extended line 8 of the metro to the Porte Dorée neighborhood. It also defined new routes through the neighborhoods of Bel-Air and Picpus. Some streets in the 12th arrondissement have even been named after famous military officers, missionaries and explorers of the colonies. A tribute is not necessarily accepted.
* This slogan was used to promote the 1931 colonial exhibition.
